Instead of the traditional basil as a finishing touch, arugula leaves were placed on top of the pie after it was taken out of the oven. That gave it a sudden, spicy, sharp burst. All of the tastes were enhanced with a warm balsamic drizzle, creating a seasonally consistent and unforgettable taste.
Atlanta, 404-205-5183, 725 Ponce de Leon Ave. NE, indacorestaurant.com
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Santo molcajete at Santo Cielo
A molcajete, or carved volcanic rock, is occasionally used as a mortar to ground spices with a pestle. It can also be heated and used to serve a variety of veggies and meats.
Here, a chunk of panela cheese melted slightly against the fire, and grilled skirt steak spat as it struck the molcajete’s hot edges. Head-on prawns that had been marinated hung on the bowl’s edge, ready to be dipped in one of the homemade sauces.
Large chunks of chicken breast that had been pressed thin and then grilled were still juicy and soft, while grilled paddles of cactus and seared jalape o tasted a lot like asparagus. Hot dogs cut lengthwise also felt surprising and carnivalesque.
The salsa verde with chorizo chunks and onion slivers simmering in the bottom of the hot bowl enhanced everything.
A pile of seasoned rice, smoky charro beans, and a choice of corn or flour tortillas were served alongside the flavorful m lange.
Atlanta; 470-275-4332; 3479 Chamblee Tucker Road; santocieloatl.com
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Anchovy and butter tartine at Madeira Park
This dish demonstrates how a few carefully stacked, well-chosen ingredients may come together in a subtle interplay.
A canvas of crusty bread was the starting point for the smooth synergy. The earthy, tangy toasted sourdough from the local Colette Bread provided the ideal flavor boost for this open-faced sandwich.
The triangular crisps were covered with a thick layer of French butter, then strips of oily, saline anchovies, pickled onion, radish, and parsley leaves.
While the creamy butter counterbalanced the salty intensity of the anchovies, which produced a concentrated burst of umami, a bite started with a satisfying crunch. The pickled onion added a sharp sweetness and vibrant acidity, and the radishes and parsley added cool, herbal undertones.
I matched the deliciously straightforward dish with a crisp, yeasty grower Champagne, although the knowledgeable staff can recommend a wide range of options from the wine bar’s long list.
404-228-2058; madeiraparkatl.com; 640 N. Highland Ave. NE, Atlanta.
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Thanks to Angela Hansberger
Communidad salad at Communidad Taqueria
I kept thinking about the salad even though we came for the tacos and burritos cooked using Communidad’s homemade tortillas.
Arugula and romaine hearts from nearby farms served as the foundation, and the fresh leaves were chopped into little pieces. The bowl was filled with thick, seasoned black beans. Hibiscus-pickled red onions provided a delightful acidity. Soft bits of queso fresco added sharpness to every bite. I started searching for the crisp, sweet, and nutty candied pepitas (roasted pumpkin seeds).
A bright jalape o green goddess dressing was the unifying factor. In order to achieve such herbaceous color and depth of flavor, I pictured a blender whipping up a wallop of fresh herbs and peppers. And the heaping bowl was topped with strips of crispy tortilla.
I transformed the side salad into a dinner by adding chicken asada to the crunchy greens.
Atlanta, 655 Highland Avenue, www.communidadatl.com
